Stencil Making Design Tips for Long-Term Use

So, you tried stencil making and were a success. There it is in front of you on paper. Before you start cutting it out you may want to consider preparing it to be used more than just once or twice. There are several ways to do that. I want to share with you a few of the options that I use.

I should tell you up front that I am a serious believer in keeping it simple so if you are hoping for some hi-tech instructions you will be disappointed.

No. 1 Method: Making an Acetate or Mylar Stencil

Acetate and Mylar are thin plastic sheeting materials that you can purchase at a craft supply store. It usually has a frosty appearance but transparent enough to trace your stencil onto it. It’s as easy as that. Trace your stencil design onto the acetate or mylar and cut it out. You now have a permanent stencil!

Now, let's get a little more familiar with the many, many options you have for stencil making films like acetate and mylar. You can purchase these films in clear or color varieties, or in sheets or rolls for different size specifications. Some even are available with an adhesive backing. Enough said about the wide variety of options available to you. Experiment and find the one that works best for your projects. In the meantime, I would like to share a couple of points for you to think about.

Some films do not accept pen or pencil very well, so you will need to find a stencil film that has a matte finish or will allow you to trace your design.

Color films are great because they are easier on the eye. Simply put, it's nice to be able to clearly see the stencil moving over the surface and the openings (islands) will stand out. Yet, make sure that the color film is transparant so that you can view the surface underneath.

For all of its usefulness, acetate does cause a few headaches — ink that won't stay, a yellow or grayish cast to old acetate and edges that curl. There are some alternatives available.

For example, Dura-Lar offers an acetate alternative. It combines the best features of mylar and acetate, and offers a variety of products so that you can purchase the film that suits your needs precisely. It is always consistent in color and overall clarity, and won't discolor with age. Dura-Lar is archival quality, safe for overlaying artwork, and it lays flat (great for stencil making). It will remain dimensionally stable for as long as you need.

Dura-Lar Matte provides both sides with a matte surface which accepts ink without feathering, as well as pencils and other drawing media. The surface is erasable.

Dick Blick Art Materials has a large supply of stencil making materials including the Dura-Lar acetate alternative products. You can find acetates in rolls or sheets, colored or clear, matte or glossy and even adhesive backed.

No.2 Method: Contact Paper for Stencil Making

If you can get your hands on some clear Contact Paper, it works great to preserve your stencil. And it just doesn’t get any easier. Just cut a piece the size of your stencil, remove the backing and stick it to the stencil. Voila!

If you can’t find the clear contact paper, try to get some with as plain a design as you can find. It gets a little trickier than with the clear. If your stencil design is on tracing paper, you may be able to adhere the contact paper to the front and cut out the stencil using the image from the back. Then when you turn it back over your stencil will be facing in the right direction. If your stencil is on regular paper and you cannot see the image through the back, try to retrace it onto tracing paper and follow the directions above.

The key is to make sure that the direction of the stencil will be right when you are finished and the protected side is the front.

Another stop when seeking stencil making materials is Mister Art.com. They have a few options of films (for permanent use) and Bee Paper Stencil Oil Board which is cardstock thick so you are able to use more than once when stenciling (but not permanent). You'll find they have a dedicated section for stenciling.

No. 3 Method: The Absolute Cheapest, Easiest Way to Protect Your Stencil

Like I said, I always look for the easiest way to get a job done. I also like to use what I have on hand. If you don’t have mylar or contact paper then packing tape works great too. Place your stencil flat on a non-pourous surface. Run strips of packing tape over the stencil making sure to overlap the edges so that the entire surface is covered. Run the tape past the edges and trim the excess with a pair of scissors.

I recommended placing your stencil on a non-pourous surface because one time I did this on the dining room table and the tape that over ran the edges of the stencil picked up some of the wood finish. It wasn’t pretty.

Good quality paints are a must in stenciling. Thin, watery paints will cause running and smudging. So, invest in good paints to insure that your project is successful. Joann.com has a fantastic line of quality paints like Delta Ceramacoat, Folk Art, Americana and DecoArt Acrylic Paints. Plus you'll find fabric paints and applicators.

Here’s a fun note - I have heard that old ex-rays work great for stencil making. I have never done this but if you have a few old ex-rays lying around, you may want to put your creative juices to work and see what you can do with them.

Before you get started, I would just like to tell you that I like to have a protective covering on the front of my stencil and not on the back. I find that a slick surface on the back increases the chance for paint smearing underneath.

Well, I hope this information helped you toward building a stencil library. Once you have your designs preserved, it’s easy to keep them filed away for the next time you want to paint with them.

Now that you have read over these options for preserving your stencils and maybe tried a couple, I know you will come up with a few on your own. So, don't forget that we need your input at the Stencil Blog . This is a place for you to learn and share your ideas. Just so you know...we want to hear from you!

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